Paris wears a thousand faces. For one thing, its architecture includes a bit of everything: Roman ruins and medieval byways in the Latin Quarter, the grandiose halls of the Louvre (a former palace); the Eiffel Tower, that ambitious 19th-century monument to progress; and the Centre Pompidou, hinting at late-20th-century unease with its exposed ducts and wiring. Its neighborhoods are just as diverse. The major gay neighborhood, and the one that never sleeps, is the Marais, a once primarily Jewish district that since the 1980s has been known for its many gay bars, lounges and sex clubs. It's the home of Paris's Gay Pride, held the fourth weekend in June. Les Halles, to the west of the Marais, is an even older gay part of tow...